Stucco Suppliers, & Stucco Contractors As evidence has been brought forth about stucco failures in involving both exterior wall coverings and structural members as shown in the RAM Builders Stucco Video and as reported though out the Wasatch Front and other areas in Utah, changes must be made in the way stucco is applied throughout Utah. Water leakage and damage stucco system failure, rust spots visible in finish coats, cracking of stucco and water intrusion at windows and doors, wood rot from water intrusion and mold are commonly seen during repair efforts which are costing home owners of Utah thousands and thousands of dollars each year. The purpose of this installation resource guide is to bring to Utah minimum installation requirements for stucco to ultimately reduce damage and loss. The resource guide defines those installation methods that are unclear and not established by minimum building code requirements. The resource guide is based on the Northwest Wall and Ceiling Bureau publication which has been implemented in State of Washington as minimum code requirements. With the implementation of their standard damage and loss have reduced to a minimum. In an effort to promote the proper installation of stucco and to minimize damage and loss the following will be required:
Starting September 1, 2002 the following changes in stucco application, materials and roofing will enforced. The purpose of these changes is to bring current installation standards and procedures in Utah to acceptable industry standards. A meeting was held June 20,2002 with industry representatives from Lath and Plaster Institute of Northern California. K-Lath Wire Company, Fortifiber Building Products Systems, Coat Stucco, Finestone Stucco and Senergy Stucco, Swanson’s Building Materials, Calply Building Materials and Capital Building Materials. The meeting involved discussions about current installation methods in Utah, materials, industry standards and actions taken in other states to eliminate problems with stucco. It was concluded that current installation methods need to be changed to prevent future stucco failures and wood damage due to water intrusion and mold and to meet current industry standards, the International Building Code, and International Conference of Building Official Evaluation Reports.
The change are as follows:
The following information and drawings comes from the NWCB .
1. Installer Certifications.
All stucco applicators and sealant/caulking applicators (when required) must have approved installer cards or certificates from the stucco manufacture on person or at job site. Thos would also require sealant or caulking contractors if required by the stucco system installation instructions of IOCBO Evaluation Report of National Evaluation Service Evaluation Report. Failure to provide approved installer cards or verification will result in a stop work notice and possible legal action against the stucco contractor’s license.
2. ICBO Evaluation Reports or National Evaluation Service Reports
All plans that show the installation of a one coat stucco system which is an “alternative material” allowed by the 2000 International Building Code must have a current ICBO, ER or NES Evaluation Report. The exterior plaster called out in the sections international Residential Code section R 7032.6.2 and International Building Code section 2512 is conventional three coat plaster with a minimum thickness of 7/8 of an inch and is not to be confused with one coat stucco systems. The research reports which call out the proper materials and installation techniques for the one coat stucco systems and must be submitted with building plans for approval by the local building departments. This applies to all residential and commercial projects. Plans will not be approved without an attached evaluation report and only ICBO ER or NES Evaluation Reports approved systems will be acceptable. Please be advised that some research reports require 3rd party special inspection for certain applications.
3. Termination of Stucco at foundations, half walls, roofs and concrete slabs.
Foundations: A 3-1/2 inch corrosion-resistant metal weep screed shall be provided at or below the foundation plate line on exterior stud walls (figure 1). Weep screed shall be placed a minimum of 4” above the earth or 2” above paved areas in applications where foundation imperfections or mistakes, the placement of the fRAMed wall of home design prohibits the weep screed from extending bellows the bottom of the sill plate, or top of the foundation. A corrosion resistant drip flashing (4” x depth of projection and stucco)(figure 2) shall be installed and then weep screed or casing bead (j channel) placed above the corrosion resistant drip flashing to divert drainage away from the structure.
The corrosion resistant drip flashing shall have a slight slope on the horizontal portion of bridge the foundation an a drip leg extending downward a minimum of ½ inch below the bottom of the sill plate or top of foundation.
The corrosion resistant drip flashing shall be installed prior to the building paper and weep screed or casing bead (j channel) and must have sealant applied between flashing and foundation. Do not seal between the weep screed or casing bead and the drip flashing as the gap must remain open to allow “weeping”, (figure 3) Place weep screed or casing bead approximately ½ inch above drip flashing. Casing bead must have weep holes to allow weeping.
Brick or stone half-walls: A corrosion resistant drip flashing shall be installed at all stucco terminations at half walls. Drip flashing shall be as described above with a horizontal portion with a slope and drip leg extending a minimum of ½ inch below the top surface of the brick or stone. Drop flashing shall be installed prior to the brick or stone surface. Do not seal between the casing bead and the drip flashing as the gap must remain open to allow “weeping”. (figure 3)
Exception: When a half wall of brick, stone, cultured stone or siding has been constructed with corrosion resistant rigid or tear proof flashing installed and extended 6 inches above the stone or brick to allow for the proper lap and installation of stucco paper, and a weather resistive barrier properly lapped to the flashing has been installed below and extends to a corrosive resistant drip flashing properly installed at the top of the foundation with properly sized and spaced weep holes for drainage then flashing as above is not required.
Concrete Slabs: Where stucco terminates at slabs such as porch caps, concrete patios, waterproof decks or similar locations the following will be required. Lap or seal corrosion resistant flashing will be required to be installed prior to the installation of the casing bead (j channel) or weep screed. The lap or seal flashing has an angled drip leg to drain all water away from the structure. The casing bead (j channel) or weep screed shall be placed a minimum or 5/8 above the surface of the slab to allow for proper drainage of the weep holes in the casing bead. Caulk or sealant is required behind the lap flashing between the sheathing and the slab. (figure 4)
Roofs, roof decks or decks: Where stucco terminates at roof deack the following shall be required:
a. It is strongly recommended to install a 1 inch x 4 inch treated wood nailer to the exterior sheathing, fastened at studs, along the bottom of all walls termination and intersecting with roofs or similar waterproof decks. It shall be the responsibility of the general contractor to have either the fRAMing or roofing contractor or who ever installs the roof flashing be responsible for the installation of the wood nailer. The wood nailer must be installed to the exterior sheathing if the roof covering has been installed prior to installation with 6” (inch) roof flashing, as 10” roof angle metal flashing in installed 6” above the wood nailer with an angel extension extending down to 3” above the roof flashing, 2 layers of paper lath, plaster and casing bead with drip holes are then installed over the roof angle flashing.
b. As an alternative 6” (inch) roof flashing is installed prior to stucco and during the installation of the roof coverings. If needed for membrane or built up roofs an angled metal lap flashing may be installed over the roof membrane with a minimum of a 2% slope after installation. After the flashing is installed a weep screed of casing bead with drip hole is installed a minimum of 1” (inch) above the roof membrane and then the paper, lath and plaster is installed.
c. Termination at a wood deck required a metal drip flashing that extends 6” (inch) above the deck joist ledger or the bottom of the deck boards. The flashing must also extent over the ledger and have a drip leg that extends a minimum of 1” (inch) below the top of the ledger. A casing bead with drip hole or weep screed is then installed a minimum of 1” (inch) above the top of the deck beards to allow for drainage. Then the weather resistive barrier, lath and plaster is installed. Where wood beams or joist penetrate stucco, casing bead, backer rod and sealant must be used or fillet sealant shall be installed at all such beams or joists. (figures 6 thru 12)
Flashing: Flashing is metal or other approved membrane flashing materials designed to intercept and redirect the flow of water to prevent it from entering the building. The principles of flashing are:
a. The termination of each flashing should be lapped in shingle fashion over the next flashing so that flow of water is over the next water shedding surface.
b. Surface tension allows water to flow along the underside (horizontal) surface of the material. A drip design is needed at point of water discharge to ensure surface tension is broken and water is allowed to drip by gravity.
c. Wind pressure and air current can drive water through at all wall locations not flashed and sealed properly.
Where flashing is required.
a. At the top of all exterior doors and windows except self flashing type with nailing fins.
b. At the intersection of chimneys and brick with stucco walls, under and at the ends of masonry, wood or metal coping or sills and above all projecting wood trim.
c. Where exterior porches, decks or stairs attach to wood fRAMe construction, wall and roof intersections and at built-in gutters.
d. All flashing must be installed as to be inspected prior to the installation of exterior plaster, siding and other exterior wall coverings.
e. Minimum height of all flashing, casing bead, drip flashing etc. is four (4) inches except for flashing at wall at roofs or decks which the minimum height is six (6) inches.
f. Metal drip flashing shall be required at all exterior windows and doors that are not the self flashing type with nailing fins.
g. Diverter flashing shall be installed at locations where stucco walls terminate at roofs and shall extend past the roof edge a minimum of two (2) inches. (figure F-1)
4. Weather resistive barriers:
The International Residential Code requires one layer of 14 pound asphalt-saturated felt free from holes. The International Building Code required one layer of No. 15 asphalt felt complying with ASTM 226 for type 1 felt for 3 coat conventional stucco. These papers have not been used in Utah or areas where the Uniform Building Code has been enforced. Most ICBO Evaluation Report and NER Evaluation Report for one coat stucco systems require two layers of grade D 30 minute felt. The industry standards in some areas of the country require 2 layers of grade D 30 minute felt. The industry standards in some areas of the country require 2 layers of grade D20 minute felt or one layer of 10 minute grade D felt and one layer of 60 minute grade D felt. The following is required for one coat systems with ICBO ER or NER reports.
a. Two layers of grade D 30 minute felt paper
b. Two layers of Tyvec House Wrap or Tyvec Stucco Wrap.
c. The combination of one layer of grade D 30 minute felt and one layer of Tyvec house wrap or stucco wrap.
d. The combination of two layers of 14 lb or 15 lb felt.
Weather resistive barrier installation
1. Weather resistive barrier shall be installed on all exterior wall sheathing including roof gable ends and in all cases extend to the top plate or to the bottom of the roof sheathing.
2. All wood based exterior wall sheathing (OSB and plywood) are subject to expansion when exposed to humidity or moisture. Wall sheathing can swell slightly when wet from stucco plaster during application from moisture vapor transmission. It is required per wood based exterior wall sheathing manufactures installation requirements that all weed based exterior wall sheathing be gapped 1/.8 inch around all edges and ends and fastened as per minimum code. This applies to vertical and horizontal installed wall sheathing. Blocking is recommended at horizontal joints.
Spacing of 1/8 inch is recommended at floor lines for multi-story construction.
3. Weather resistive barrier (felt paper) is to be installed “shingle fashion” long dimension horizontal to fRAMing. Horizontal joints to be lapped a minimum of two (2) inches and vertical joints six (6) inches.
4. Hammer tacker staples 3/8 inch or less in length may be used for attachment of weather barrier and in no case can any fastener penetrate both sides of the exterior sheathing. Care shall be taken during stapling not teat weather resistive barrier.
5. Roofing nails or staples or any fastener grater than 3/8 inch in length or of size of driven in a manner to penetrate both sides of the exterior sheathing shall not be allowed sand must be removed and that area be repaired.
6. Any staple or attachment device that tears or breaks the surface of the weather resistive barrier of any tear, rip or damage to the paper must be repaired with a compatible sealant or completely replace the damaged portion of then weather resistive barrier. Sealants not compatible are any that are latex or water based.
7. Penetrations such as hose bibs, AC lines, gas lines, dryer vents, combustion air vents, electrical receptacle and light boxes and gable end vents shall be effectively flashed or sealed. Electrical meter boxes and panels shall be effectively flashed or encased with casing bead and effectively sealed.
8. In all cases the weather resistive barrier must cover and terminate in an attachment flange of the screed, casing bead etc.
5. Soffit and Fascia
Soffit and fascia shall not be installed until the weather resistive barrier and lath have been installed. It may also be installed after the base coat or finish coat has been installed. The current method of allowing the soffit and fascia contactor to install a weather barrier during installation of soffit an fascia will no longer be allowed due to improper installation of weather barrier, torn and ripped weather barrier below soffit due to wind and weather conditions.
Exception: Corrosion resistant rigid or tear proof flashing extending 6” below the soffit line and 6” above the soffit line with a properly lapped and installed weather barrier extending from the soffit line to the top plate of the wall or to the roof sheathing shall be allowed.
6. Window & door installations and flashing & Stucco termination at windows & doors.
Window and door installations (Remember windows and doors are a source of water entry into the building and must be installed and flashed properly.)
1. All windows must be installed in accordance with the manufacturers installation instructions.
2. All aluminum, vinyl and wood windows shall be labeled showing conformance to AAMA / NWDA / 101/ IS.2
3. Fenestration ratings and installation instructions must be attached or provided on windows.
4. Exterior glass doors to be installed in accordance with AAMA installation manual.
Termination of Stucco at windows:
1. Methods of terminating stucco to the window fRAMe are:
a. Installing a casing bead or rigid corrosion resistant flashing the width of the finished stucco around the perimeter of the window gapped 1/8 to 3/8 inch from the window fRAMe and filling the space with sealant.
b. Abutting the stucco directly to the window fRAMe except fro the bottom fRAMe where weep holes are located for water drainage. In this location casing bead or rigid corrosion resistant flashing with a 1/8 to 3/8 inch space from the fRAMe is installed the width of the finished stucco including pop-outs to allow water to drain over the finish surface of the stucco and not into the stucco or behind it. In cases where the window fRAMe extends beyond the finished stucco, provide a minimum of ¼ inch, fillet sealant application.
2. On multi-story wood-fRAMe buildings, it is recommended that stucco be terminated in casing bead gapped 1/8 to 3/8 inch from the head of the window fRAMe. This is for the anticipated deflection from the second story.
3. "Nail-on" windows (windows with attachment fins) are required to be installed and flashed as per the window manufacture’s installation instructions and or minimum flashing requirement and shown in details. A method for escape of water from weep holes in the bottom fRAMe must be provided. (Casing bead or rigid flashing and sealant.)
4. Fasteners used to attach weather barrier, trim, lath etc are to be kept away from the window nailing fin especially at corners. Windows with broken or damaged nailing fins shall be rejected and required to be repaired as per manufactures requirements or replaced.
5. Rough openings for windows should be fRAMed to ensure the fasteners for the attachments of trim and or other accessories will not penetrate window attachments flanges and if penetrating exterior sheathing must be backed with solid blocking.
6. Metal drip flashing or metal head flashing shall be required at all windows with out window fins or attachment flanges. (Figure W1 thru 2)
Window Install & Flashing:
1. Install sill flashing at bottom of opening, staple along top edge 3/8 inch from top of paper only. Leave bottom edge unattached for weather resistive barrier installation to go underneath flashing paper. 6 inch minimum width has been called out and shown on details by new AMMA installations details requires 9 inches. All window and door flashing should be no less than 9 inches in width.
2. Install jamb flashing paper at sides of opening, two rows of staples, do not staple below row of staples at sill flashing.
3. Flashing paper to be coated vapor barrier, reinforced, Grade A or B. This procedure is for nail-flange type windows. Ice and water shield or moist stop type product.
4. Apply a continuous bead of sealant (appropriate sealant such as silicone that meets ASTM standard C1193 and C1299 is required) around the full perimeter of the back side of the mounting flange. Apply the sealant in line with the pre-punched holes or slots on the mounting flange. The sealant should cover the pre-punched holes or slots. Immediately install the window into position, pressing the window against the fRAMing to compress the sealant. Do not disrupt the continuous seal. Apply shims if necessary and fasten window in place. (figure FWB 1 thru 3)
5. Corrosion resistant metal flashing may be used as an alternate to the above flashing if allowed by window manufacture.
Stucco Termination at Doors
Methods of stucco termination at doors shall be same as for windows.
Doors with brick mold fames and other non flanged type exterior doors require continuous rigid non corrosive flashing around the door perimeter to prevent water leakage into building envelope.
Exterior Glass Door Installation and Flashing
There are two distinct different exterior door types, which are:
a. Block fRAMe exterior glass doors with either a factory or field applied exterior brick mold for membrane / drainage walls
b. Exterior glass doors with mounting flanges
Prepare the opening, install the door and install the sill pan flashing as per installation instruction or the following:
Sill plan flashing is required or strongly recommended under all exterior doors by most door manufactories. Sill pans should be integrated with flexible flashing when required by door manufacture. The bottom fRAMe portion of the exterior door is typically set into sealant whether a sill pan is used or not. The sill fRAMe of the doors should never be penetrated with fasteners. (Figure SP 1 thru 3)
8. Lath and Trim Accessories & Installation
a. Lath shall be a minimum of 1 inch x 20 gauge self-furred stucco netting, zinc coated, galvanized woven wire or as specially required by ICBO ER or NER evaluation reports. Lath shall be installed as to allow for proper embedment of plaster which is accomplished thru self-furred wire, or self furred nails or other approved furring devices.
b. Lath shall be installed with the long dimension of the sheets or rolls horizontal to fRAMing members.
c. Apply lath taut, but don not stretch tight as to eliminated self-furring feature of wire. Wire over stretched that will not allow a pencil to be slid behind the lath shall be rejected or if possible a 1/8 inch fur out cannot be achieved, wire lathe will have to be removed and new installed. If rigid or tightly stretched stucco netting is desired by plaster applicators, they may use a heave gauge 1 ½ inch x 17 gauge, ¼ self furred zinc galvanized woven wire as an alternative. Over stretched stucco netting will not be allowed.
d. Ends of lath shall be lapped a minimum of 1 ½ inch and must occur and be fastened over a stud.
e. Bend lath and continue around corners to the next fRAMing member (Approximately 3 ½ inch minimum)
f. Fasteners for lath shall be 1 ½ inch long nails, 1 ¼ inch long ¾ crown, 16 gauge staples. Industry recommends for the attachment of lath is 24 inches on center. The maximum spacing for fasteners is 24” on center horizontal with spacing no closer that nor greater than 6 inches apart vertically on studs or fRAMing members.
g. Fasteners to be centered on the stud or faming member. If staples are used both legs of the staple must penetrate the fRAMing member. Maximum spacing for studs or fRAMing members for the attachment of lath is 24 inches on center. The maximum spacing for fasteners is 24” on center horizontal with spacing no closer than nor greater than 6 inches apart vertically on studs or fRAMing members.
h. Fasteners will not be allowed to penetrate the exterior sheathing anywhere except at studs or fRAMing members. Any fastener that penetrates the exterior sheathing must be removed or solid blocking installed and then re-attached.
i. Lath shall not be embedded into foam pop outs or when used foam boards. The required 1/8 inch furred space must be maintained.
9. Trim accessories and Installation
a. Trim accessory joints refers to various types of control joints, expansion joints, reveals or any other device or system that divide or break the surface of the stucco membrane.
b. Control joints are installed for the purpose of controlling the location and the amount of cracking that might occur. The installation of control joints is not an assurance that there will be no cracking in the stucco nor will it limit cracking to areas by control joints.
c. It is required that the weather resistive barrier be continuous or unbroken behind all trim accessory joints.
d. It is required that all vertical trim accessory joints that require the lath to be cut or terminate and installed at the top of the flanges be attached with appropriate fasteners through the trim flange, sheathing and into a fRAMing member. Double fRAMing members may be required at these locations. This does not pertain to control joints over continuous lath.
e. It is recommended that control joints be installed horizontally at the floor line on multi-story fRAMed and sheathed buildings.
f. It is recommended that in fRAMed and sheathed construction control joints be installed as to create square stucco panels not to exceed 180 square feet and a maximum panel length of 18 feet.
g. It is recommended that at intersections of accessory trim joints such as end to end, abutting one another or at terminations. Trim accessory joints shall be weather-sealed by embedment in caulking at such intersections.
h. All trim such as control joints etc shall be not less that 3/8 inch which is the required minimum thick ness of the plaster.
10. Cement Plaster (One Coat Systems with an ICBO research report)
Plaster installation.
a. Mix plaster in accordance with manufactures suggested mixing instructions.
b. Plaster thick ness must be measured from the face of the substrate.
c. If wire pattern is visible in plaster, plaster is too thin.
d. Minimum required stucco thickness for one coat systems is 3/8 inch. ½ inch thickness is suggested.
e. Cold Weather Requirements: Do not mix materials of apply cement plaster when ambient temperature is less than 35 (thirty five) degrees.
Do not apply cement plaster to frozen surfaces or surfaces containing frost. No chemical additives allowed unless written approval is submitted from the stucco system manufacture’s technical department.
Tenting and heat is required if cement plaster is to be installed below 35 (thirty five) degrees.
No acrylic finish material is to be installed when temperature is less than 40 degrees unless tenting and heat is provided.
f. Hot weather requirements: Protect cement plaster from uneven and excessive evaporations during hot, windy and dry weather.
Moist curing or wetting is required for 48 hours after application of base coat when ambient temperature is more that 75 degrees.
Moist curing is required at the start and the end of the work day. If humidity is higher than 70% moist curing is not required.
Proof method and means of moist curing in written form or by other acceptable means must be provided to the building department.
Areas subject to the combination of high winds and high heat should not have base coast installed until weather conditions allow.
11. Other Considerations:
a. All rain gutter shall terminate at least 1 inch from stucco. The embedment of any rain gutter, handrails, trim, guardrails etc, shall be prohibited.
b. Electrical meter bases, panels or similar devices installed on the exterior of homes prior to the weather resistive barrier must be flashed the same as a wood window with head flashing or casing bead over the top and flashing down the sides and at the bottom to prevent the entrance of water. Option of installing a piece of Grade D paper (2 layers) behind the meter box will no longer be allowed.
c. Gable end attic vents, access doors, or similar “openings” in the exterior wall shall be flashed the same as wood windows as noted above.
d. It is strongly suggested that one coat stucco be a minimum thick ness of ½ inch to help eliminate moisture from entering the structure.
e. It is required by the IBC and IRC that foundations for masonry and brick veneer be flashed with corrosion resistant flashing it is strongly recommended that all foundations regardless of exterior wall covering be flashed to prevent water from entering the structure.
EIFS Systems (Exterior Insulation Finish Systems)
EIFS systems are considered an “alternative material” allowed by the International Building Code and International Residential Code. This requires an evaluation report or research report from ICBO NER or NES. Special inspection or 3rd party inspection are required in many EIFS systems are limited to commercial type buildings and shall not be applied to residential type occupancies.
Drainage type EIFS
Drainage-type EIFS suystames are not adhesively attached to the exterior substrate. A weather resistive barrier of water drainage system is placed between the insulation board and the substrate. That are many different water drainage mates, proved insulation boards, special drainage weather barriers, drainage flashing and fitting etc. These systems provide a drainage path and additional protection against moisture.
Attachment to the exterior substrate is by mechanical fasteners such as screws with wind lock devices. Drainage type EIFS systems must be used on all residential occupancies.
Care should be taken to insure that materials and methods are interchanged between EIFS systems unless prescribed in the research report. Backer rod and approved sealant are required at most terminations against windows, doors etc and back wrapped at terminations at brick and stone. All systems are not the same and must be inspected as such. An inspection cannot be made without an ICBO ER or NER Valuation Report on the job site or in the inspector’s hand.
If you have any questions or concerns with this resource guide please contact Jody Hilton at 568-7263
21.4.1 Sill Pan Flashing Installation
Sill pan flashing is sometimes provided by the builder or manufacturer of formed in the field by the installer. When using sill pan flashing, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If instructions are not provided, use the instructions that follow:
1. The sill pan flashing must be formed to fit the sill condition. Many manufacturers have pre-formed extruded shapes known as “Sub sills.” The sill pan should be deep enough to run completely under the door and conform to the shape fit the sill condition. It should slope whenever possible to the exterior.
2. Always use end caps. They may be provided by the manufacturer and/or formed in the field. The end caps must be equal to or higher than the interior upstanding leg of the sill pan (figure 21-5). Seal all joints between the sill pan flashing and the end caps to form a watertight pan.(figure 21-6).
3. To install the pan flashing, first check the sill condition to determine if it is level. If the sill condition is not level, use leveling shims under the sill pan as opposed to under the door.
4. If desired, pre-drill the sill pan as required prior to setting the sill into position. Just prior to installing the sill pan, apply (2) 3/8” nominal diameter beads of sealant on the sub-floor where the sill pan will be positioned. Place one bead on the interior side and one bead on the exterior side where the sill pan will make contact. Continue both beads up the jamb condition approximately 6” (figure 21-7).
5. Apply a bead of sealant to the back side of the down-turned leg on the exterior of the sill pan (figure 21-8).
6. When shims are required for the out of level floors, they are to be applied under the sill pan. If using shims, apply sealant both under and over the shims to ensure a water-tight bedding condition.
7. Carefully set the sill pan into position, compressing it dwon onto the sealant beads and over any flexibvle flashing materials used in your specific application.
8. Check sill pan for level prior to final attachment. Attach the sill pan to the sill condition at a maximum of 16” O.C. When penetrating the sill pan flashing with fasteners, pre-drill the hole, apply sealant into the hole; attach the fastener, than seal over the fastener head and/or washers with appropriate sealant.
9. the sill pan must be sealed to the weather resistant barrier along all joints including the joint between the pan flashing and caps and the jamb condition. (figure 21-9)
10. Once the sill pan flashing is set, double check all joints and reseal/tool as needed to create a smooth transitions between the jamb condition and the top of the end cap. Install the remaining materials as outlined in the following sections.
11. Just prior to installing the door into the sill pan, apply two (2) additional 3/8” diameter (nominal) beads of sealant on top of the sill pan (figure 21-13). One bead should be on the interior side of the sill pan and one on the exterior side, both should make contact with the door fRAMe when it is installed next.